The September Review
September is always a strange month (at least if you go to a UC school). It’s this awkward period where you ask yourself why school hasn’t started yet, and how summer somehow feels more boring than relaxing. At least for me, that’s always the case. But with school starting this month, it serves as a gentle reminder to take the necessary break before diving into the next academic year. For me, this was especially important.
This summer was probably one of the worst I’ve experienced. Carrying the weight of unfortunate life events and having to study almost every day made it a summer I want to forget. While there were a few nice moments scattered throughout, I still see it as a time I’d rather leave behind. However, to recharge for the upcoming school year, I made sure to take the break I needed. I went back to Iceland, a country that’s vast and desolate, where I could sing in the car, reflect on life, and reconnect with nature.
Before getting into those life events, I thought it was worth sharing that all the studying paid off—I passed my written qualification exam. If there had been one thing that might have kept me from obtaining a Ph.D., it would have been this exam. So, despite everything, I’m happy to say I achieved one big win this summer. Now, onto my Iceland adventures.
Iceland
I forget when I mentioned that I would stop traveling, but I definitely lied about that. In a way, traveling has become my second nature. It gives me countless stories to tell about the random things I’ve tried, experienced, and learned from being immersed in different cultures. So, after my qualification exam, I took yet another trip—this time back to a country I truly appreciate.
Iceland has become one of my top destinations due to its unforgettable natural beauty. It always strikes me as surreal whenever I visit, because despite being just an island in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean, it feels like an entirely different planet. Iceland is famously known as the land of ice and volcanoes, and this trip made that more evident than ever. When I last visited in 2022, I hiked an active volcano, but during this trip, the roads were closed due to recent eruptions—some occurring as recently as a week before I arrived. Lava had blocked access, which was disappointing because I had hoped to witness a volcanic eruption up close. Luckily, this wouldn’t be my last encounter with a volcano on this trip.
Day 1: Back to Vik
I’ve come to really dislike long flights, and Iceland was no exception. In fact, I’ve started to enjoy traveling to Europe less overall. But a recent solution I found to deal with long flights is sleeping pills—specifically melatonin—which help pass the time. These sleeping pills would prove even more useful later on during the trip as I explored the vast country. From LA, we had a short layover in Toronto before taking an overnight flight to Keflavik. So, as soon as we landed in Iceland, no matter how much sleep I got, it was time to start the day.
Iceland’s geography can be confusing. During the flight, you might think you’re flying into the capital, Reykjavik, but this is a common misconception. On my previous visit, I had mistakenly booked a car in Reykjavik, only to realize that we were landing in the small town of Keflavik, which is nearly 40 minutes away. This time, I didn’t make the same mistake and picked up a car directly from the airport. Once I had the car, we headed straight to Gullfoss (Golden Falls), which is only accessible in the summer due to harsh weather conditions.
What made this trip different from my last visit was the extended daylight—16-17 hours compared to just 6 hours of sun before. This changed everything. I could see the stunning landscapes all around me, but it also meant more frequent stops to explore. Every 10 minutes, I found myself pulling over to admire a new, otherworldly terrain, which wasn’t great for gas consumption but made for an unforgettable adventure.
After nearly 20 stops inbetween Keflavik and Gullfoss, we had finally made it to our destination. It was quite crowded which probably meant that it was going to be a surreal scene. However sometimes, respectfully things don’t look as they seem and this was one of those cases. Gullfoss had an amazing waterfall structure but something about the colors and the contrast was offputting. Here is a side by side of our expectation versus reality:
Say what you want, but I guess beauty is relative. After watching what I thought was a dissapointing waterfall, I then made my way to the city of Vik. Vik is quite famous because it has the famous black sand beach which I learned was caused by volcano ash. There are seriously so many active volcanoes in this country that it is both scary and puts you in awe. But I just found it quite cool that nature itself was reflected in its geography and landscape. So while we made our way to Vik, we stopped by one more notable place with was Geysir, home to two active geysers and many boiling hot pots. The older geyser erupts infrequently, while the more active geyser, Strokkur, erupts about every 4-6 minutes. The sulfurous water in the area has sculpted the land in unique ways. I was fortunate to see Strokkur erupt 3 times during my short stint there before heading back on the road to Vik.
One final note from this day was that I had noticed that all towns in Iceland had Vik as their suffix. ReykyaVIK, KeflaVIK, VIK, and during this trip I had wondered the whole time what it meant. My initial guess was that it meant city or town but after looking it up on Google, I was surprised to hear that it actually means bay or creek. So ReykjaVIK means “smokey bay” and HusaVIK means “bay of houses”. Just a little fun fact about Iceland.
Day 2: Ice! Ice! Ice!
Day two was largely about ice. We started the day by embarking on an ice cave tour beneath the Mýrdalsjökull Glacier was an adventure unlike any other. We began our journey in Vík, where we met our guide and climbed into a sturdy Super Jeep, specially designed to tackle the rugged terrain leading up to the glacier. The drive itself was thrilling, offering sweeping views of Iceland’s dramatic landscape, from vast lava fields to towering mountain ranges.
As we arrived at the glacier’s edge, we geared up with crampons and helmets, ready to step onto the icy surface. Our guide led us toward the entrance of the Katla Ice Cave, a natural marvel shaped by the glacier’s slow movement and volcanic activity. The moment we stepped inside, we were greeted by a mesmerizing world of shimmering blue ice interlaced with black streaks of volcanic ash. The intricate patterns told a silent story of past eruptions and the glacier’s evolving nature.
Deeper into the cave, the beauty grew even more surreal. Sunlight filtered through small openings, casting an otherworldly glow on the ice walls, making them sparkle like crystals. Our guide shared fascinating insights into the cave’s formation and the powerful forces of nature at play, deepening our appreciation for this awe-inspiring environment.
The entire experience, from exploring the vast ice chambers to marveling at the cave’s unique formations, lasted about three hours. As we emerged from the cave, the vast expanse of Mýrdalsjökull stretched out before us, a stunning reminder of Iceland’s untamed beauty. This journey into the heart of the glacier was not just an adventure but a profound connection to the raw, breathtaking power of nature.
After the ice tour I settled out from the small town of Vik, I was eager to continue my journey toward the ethereal beauty of Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon. The morning air was crisp, carrying the scent of the sea as I left behind the iconic black sands of Reynisfjara. The basalt sea stacks, towering like ancient sentinels, stood silently against the crashing Atlantic waves, a last reminder of Vik’s haunting yet captivating landscape.
Driving eastward along Route 1, the scenery began to shift. The rolling hills, once vibrant with moss, gave way to vast, open plains. The land stretched endlessly, interrupted only by the occasional herd of Icelandic horses grazing peacefully. Every so often, glacial rivers snaked their way through the valleys, glinting under the pale sunlight.
As the miles passed, the imposing silhouette of Vatnajökull, Europe’s largest glacier, started to dominate the horizon. Its icy peaks gleamed under the clear sky, promising the icy wonders that lay ahead. The air grew noticeably cooler, and a serene stillness seemed to settle over the landscape. The road, flanked by mountains on one side and the open plains on the other, felt like a passage into another world.
After hours on the road, a shimmering expanse appeared ahead—a sparkling glacial lagoon filled with floating icebergs. Drawing closer, I could see the icebergs, their jagged forms glistening under the afternoon light, slowly drifting in the tranquil blue waters. The sight was breathtaking, a perfect blend of stillness and majesty. Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, with its otherworldly beauty, was finally before me, a living painting of ice, water, and sky.
After our mesmerizing visit to Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, where we marveled at the serene beauty of floating icebergs, we continued our journey eastward to Skaftafell, a stunning nature reserve within Vatnajökull National Park. Skaftafell’s diverse landscapes and well-maintained trails made it a perfect destination for a day of hiking.
Our first objective was the hike to Svartifoss, the Black Falls, renowned for its dramatic basalt column formations that resemble a natural cathedral. Starting from the Skaftafell Visitor Center, we followed a scenic trail that wound through lush birch forests. The path offered breathtaking views of the surrounding mountains and distant glaciers, with each step immersing us deeper into the tranquility of Icelandic nature. The moderate hike, with its gradual ascent, culminated in the awe-inspiring sight of Svartifoss, where water cascaded elegantly over the dark, geometric lava columns—a sight that was both surreal and deeply rewarding.
Still energized by the beauty of Svartifoss, we decided to venture further to Fagrifoss, aptly named “Beautiful Falls.” Located near the village of Fagurhólsmýri, reaching Fagrifoss required a rugged journey through Iceland’s highlands. The drive itself was an adventure, involving river crossings and navigating through rough, unpaved roads. But as we approached, the sound of rushing water guided us to the edge of the canyon. There, Fagrifoss revealed itself in all its splendor, tumbling down a multi-tiered cliff into a serene pool below, surrounded by untouched wilderness. We ended the day by driving back to Reykjavik as I ended our second day of the trip.
Day 3: A Day of Disruptions
Day 3 was a change in plans because I was originally trying to drive around the whole ring road. However, I got scared that it was going to snow since my whale watching tour got canceled via email. I was imagining the worst case scenario and decided to drive back to Reykjavik late last night. Therefore, it really disrupted how I was going to spend the rest of my vacation. As a result, I decided that I wanted to go see puffins which was a must see in Iceland but that meant I had to trek all the way to the peninsula in the north west as fast as possible. Foreshadowing a bit, truth is I probably would have made it but I decided to take a dip in the hot springs which delayed my departure by two hours. The goal was to take a seaboat from a port that would take me exactly where I wanted to go. The only issue was I had no idea what the schedule was like to board this boat.
Therefore Leaving Reykjavik after my hot spring, I set off on what I thought would be a smooth 2.5-hour drive to Stykkishólmsbær, a charming coastal town on the Snæfellsnes Peninsula. The goal was to catch the last ferry of the day across Breiðafjörður Bay, renowned for its scenic route and the chance to glimpse countless tiny islands dotting the water.
The drive itself was stunning, with the landscape changing from the bustling cityscape of Reykjavik to wide-open fields, rugged mountains, and glimpses of the ocean along the way. Despite the beauty around me, time seemed to slip through my fingers. A few unexpected slowdowns—a mix of road construction and stopping more often than planned to soak in the breathtaking views—began to eat into my carefully calculated schedule.
As I neared Stykkishólmsbær, I could feel the clock ticking against me. The picturesque town came into view, with its colorful houses and the iconic hill topped by the old church. The ferry terminal was just beyond, and for a brief moment, I thought I might still make it. But as I pulled into the parking area, the reality hit: I had missed the ferry by a mere 30 minutes.
I stood there, watching as the boat I was meant to be on drifted further into the bay, its passengers embarking on the journey I had so eagerly anticipated. It was a crushing disappointment, knowing the effort I had put into getting there on time. Yet, standing on the dock, I couldn’t help but take in the quiet beauty of the harbor. The stillness of the water, the calls of seabirds overhead, and the gentle hum of the town behind me offered a small consolation.
Though I missed the ferry, the experience was a reminder of how unpredictable travel can be, especially in a place as captivating as Iceland, where every corner begs you to pause and take it all in. Next time, I’d be sure to leave even earlier, factoring in those inevitable detours and the sheer allure of the journey itself.
Quote of the Monthly
I can be changed by what happens to me. But I refuse to be reduced by it - Maya Angelou
Contact
Simon Lee
simonlee711@gmail.com
simonlee711@g.ucla.edu